Your first time in Kashi

Varanasi stretches along the western bank of the Ganga, which here flows north. The ghats — stone steps down to the water — run for about 6.5 km from Assi in the south to Raj Ghat in the north. Behind them is the old city, a tangle of lanes (galis) where the Kashi Vishwanath temple stands, close to Dashashwamedh Ghat and the busy Godowlia crossing.

The newer city — the railway stations, the Cantonment, BHU and most big hotels — lies away from the river. Plan to spend most of your time between Assi and Manikarnika.

• Modest, breathable clothes covering shoulders and knees; a shawl or stole.
• Slip-on shoes or sandals — you will take them off often. Avoid leather for temple days.
• Small cash in notes of ₹10–₹200, a cloth bag, hand sanitiser and tissues.
• A water bottle; in summer, a cap and ORS sachets.
• Full checklist: packing list.

• Remove footwear before temples and some ghat platforms.
• Do not photograph cremations at Manikarnika or Harishchandra Ghat.
• Ask before photographing sadhus and people — some will ask for money in return.
• Use your right hand for giving and receiving offerings and prasad.