Vishalakshi, the wide-eyed goddess

Shakti Peethas mark the places where parts of the goddess Sati’s body are said to have fallen as Shiva carried her in grief. At Vishalakshi the tradition most often cited is a jewel from her earring (manikarna) — the same legend that gives nearby Manikarnika Ghat its name — though different texts mention her eyes or face. As at every Shakti Peetha, the goddess has a guardian Bhairava; here it is Kaal Bhairav, the Kotwal of Kashi.

In Kashi’s sacred geography Vishalakshi is one of the six stations of the “Shastanga” pilgrimage, together with Vishwanath, the Ganga, Kaal Bhairav, Dhundiraj Ganesha and Dandapani.

From the 19th century the temple was rebuilt and cared for by the Nattukottai Nagarathars (Chettiars) of the Chettinad region of Tamil Nadu. The present structure was completed in 1893, and a Tamil inscription records its consecration. The building mixes a North Indian haveli plan with South Indian touches, including a small Dravidian-style gopuram.

Tamil families often speak of Vishalakshi of Kashi together with Kamakshi of Kanchipuram and Meenakshi of Madurai as the three great goddesses — and many plan a Kashi yatra so that darshan of Vishwanath is completed with Vishalakshi.

• Kajali Teej (Bhadrapada, August–September): the temple’s main festival.
• Navratri in Chaitra and Ashwin: the temple is part of the nine-goddess circuit, and evenings are crowded.
• Fridays and full-moon days draw more devotees.

• The temple is small and reached through narrow lanes — ask for “Vishalakshi Mandir” near Meer Ghat.
• Go in the morning for a calm darshan; queues form on festival evenings.
• Combine with Annapurna (about 200 m) and Kashi Vishwanath (about 250 m).
• Priests at the temple are used to performing archana for South Indian families; a modest dakshina is customary.